Patagonia with Quark Expeditions

In March of 2024, I was fortunate enough to join Quark Expeditions on their inaugural Patagonia Essentials Expedition. This new itinerary for Quark had been several years in the making and involved the input and careful planning by Quark Expedition experts as well as from renowned local Chilean Scientists and Naturalists. Quark's vision was to design an itinerary that fully showcased this fascinating region, whilst providing an expedition experience that matched their current suite of polar departures. Well, the wait was worth it. We were treated to an unforgettable 14 days of expedition cruising through the spectacular network of Chilean fjords and channels. The spirit of expedition was front and centre as we navigated through areas of uncharted waters, weaved through narrow passages, channels and passes, and explored the stunning Patagonian wilderness by ship, zodiac, kayak, SUPs, shore landings, and helicopter.

Read more about my adventure below.

Our expedition was conducted onboard Quark's purpose-built expedition ship, Ultramarine. The ship perfectly blends its core expedition mission, with all the comforts, amenities, and a variety of cabin types to soften the edges of even the most hardened explorer.

It's hard to summarise all the things we saw and experienced over the course of 14 days, so I've attached a video and photos below with highlights of the trip. For me, the allure of the region's glaciers really captivated me. We had several landings that involved walking to the base of these massive moving rivers of ice. Being such a remote wilderness, the default is calm and silence, so the sounds of the glaciers popping, cracking, and calving as they inch down the mountainside sounded like thunder ripping through the serenity— it was a sound you could feel in your body. And as for colour, there really isn't a way to describe the flashes of vivid blue that can be seen through the fissures and crevices of the ice. The wildlife experiences were also memorable. Humpback whales surfacing close to our zodiacs, bustling colonies of sea lions competing for the best spots on rocky outcrops, Magellan penguins, fur seals, condors and too many other different types of birds to mention (unless you were one of the twitchers onboard, then you could probably recite all the birds we saw, and on what day). During our visit to Torres Del Paine there were also the Guanacos (a llama-like animal), Rheas and Culpos, and of course the apex predator, the Puma. As with all wildlife spotting, there are no certainties. The group I was in had all eyes scouring the landscapes of Torres Del Paine searching for Pumas and saw none (although I'm sure they saw us). The other group that went the next day had Puma literally walk out of the bushes and wander around next to their bus!

Torres Del Paine was another standout experience. I'm not sure what exactly it is about massive granite peaks and towers that is so entrancing, but the impact is real, and you can gaze at Cordillera del Paine Massif all day long and not get tired of its magnificence.

For lovers of history, stories of the indigenous peoples of the region, as well as the voyages of early explorers such as Magellan, and later Charles Darwin will fascinate you. I was particularly struck by tales of the Yahgan people, who were a sea-faring group based amongst the fjords and channels. They were renowned for being seemingly impervious to the cold, wearing little or no clothing while being totally exposed to the elements year-round. I did the Chile plunge, which involved jumping off the ship for a quick, and I mean really quick, dip in the water. I couldn't get back out of the water and rugged up fast enough. I would not have cut it as a Yahgan.

The success of early explorers often hinged on their ability to manage food supplies and fresh water, rationing and repetitive bland meals were part of being an explorer. Fast forward to 2024 and on Ultramarine you get all the joy of expedition, and all the joy of exquisite food and beverages. All meals are included and are available in either the Balina Restaurant, the main dining room, which is a beautifully appointed U-shaped arrangement that allows for both enjoyment of the great food options and continued enjoyment of the views while you eat. The other option was the Bistro 487, a more casual experience but with no less exceptional quality and variety of food available. The views from the restaurant led to several disruptions to the dining service, firstly with a yellow full moon rising over mountains one evening just after entrees were served. And on another evening, as the light was fading with an uneventful overcast sky, a sudden break in the clouds transformed into the most spectacular orange sunset. On both occasions, the dining room was left empty and wait staff on hold as we all rushed outside to marvel at these special moments. Choosing from the a la Carte menu at dinner was made easier by being able to view a display of all the dishes on offer for each course for that evening, although it didn't make the decision any easier given the options were all very appealing. One of my fellow travellers solved this problem by picking two mains and having one for the entree, smart thinking Dave. On a personal note, the dedicated omelette chef at breakfast every morning was a favourite of mine. Only on a cruise does breakfast become a multi-course affair!

Outside of mealtimes, the main social hub of the ship is the Panorama lounge. Located on deck 7, the Panorama lounge provides a place to relax and socialise with your fellow expeditioners. During the day there is coffee, tea, and snacks available, as well the Panorama Lounge Bar for something a little stronger to warm the cockles of your heart. There is a large deck in front of the lounge, which is the perfect spot to enjoy the views, spot wildlife such as birds, dolphins, sea lions, and seals, or watch with interest as Ultramarine navigated through some of the very narrow passages such as Kirke Pass and White Pass. For those who needed to stretch their legs and walk off their 3-course breakfast (i.e. me) there was a complete wrap-around walkway on deck 5. There is a spa centre offering a variety of treatments, as well as a gym onboard, although I must admit I never did see the inside of the gym. Walking around deck 5 and enjoying the views seemed like a much better option.

Ultramarine can take up to 199 passengers (max 150 for polar trips), and there are 140 staff to look after you. The Expedition team were a great group with a diverse range of experience and specialty knowledge. After dinner each evening there was a 'bar talk' which involved one of the expedition team sharing stories of their personal adventures. Sandy Allen talking about his first encounter of the Mazeno Ridge on the Mountain Nanga Parbat had the whole ship enthralled (check out his book about the adventure, In Some Lost Place).

Exploring Patagonia with Quark aboard Ultramarine is perfect for anyone who is looking for adventure and the spirit of exploration, in an impossibly picturesque and interesting part of the world. Feel free to contact me at ben.mackay@helloworld.com.au if you would like to know more about this trip or secure your berth for the 2025 or 2026 departures.

Ben Dolphin

Business & Development Manager